Removing Bodywork
Overview
Removal of the front and rear clips is best done by 2 people, but with practice can be done single handedly.
Removal of either the front or rear clip requires that all AeroCatch fasteners are unlatched. This is done by pressing the moon shaped segment at the wide end of the fastener, which will release the handle. GENTLY lift the handle until the pin can be seen to have released from the hole in the mounting rod. If it’s sticking its best not to force the handle but slightly jiggle the body work to release any load. A flat ended screwdriver can also be used to move the mounting rod sideways if necessary.
With the AeroCatchs unlatched there are a total of 14 Quick Latch fasteners that hold the front and rear clip to the car. These are released by pressing the button in the center. These work well when there is NO load on them. Oftentimes they are under load, and the body panel will have to be pushed or lifted to release the load on them before the button can be pressed and the latch released.
Front Clip
The car is shipped with the front strobe lights disconnected, as most people will unknowingly remove the front clip and immediately pull the wiring from its connector. Before removing the front clip, look through the right-hand air inlet in the front bumper and ensure the cable is unplugged from the socket, in the right-hand chassis side plate.
Front clip removal is easiest with a person either side holding the wheel arch and the front light relief.
Release the four AeroCatches.
Release the quick latch fasteners. It can help to pull up on the bodywork while you do this with your other hand.
Lift the rear of the clip upwards, tiling the clip forward like opening the hood on an old Jag E-type! Once the AeroCatches are clear of their mounting rods, hold the clip at that angle, and slide the whole clip forward to release the splitter supports.
The whole clip can be placed on the ground on the splitter, but something should be placed under the rear edge of the hood to support the weight at the rear, or you will cause damage to the fenders around the wheel arch.
If you are alone, a very low-profile dolly can be placed under the front splitter. Once all fasteners are released, simply push the front clip forward after lifting it up to clear the AeroCatches.
Rear Clip
Rear clip removal is easiest and can be done single-handedly or with a helper.
Remove the two AeroCatches by the wing.
Remove the quick latches. It is helpful to start with the two at the rear diffuser (as these are easy to miss!), then work your way to each side. On the sides, the middle catch may be easiest to release, then release the bottom catch by the floor and the top catch by the airbox.
Get ready to lift the rear clip. This can be done with one person on either side holding the clip by the side of the ducktail and the edge of the fender that mates with the sidepod, or with a single person holding the wing.
Lift the rear clip straight upwards to clear the cooling duct mount and radiator. The straight upward movement will also allow the rear fenders to clear the roll hoop front edge. The rear clip can be stored in the vertical position standing on the back edge of the ducktail and the rear wing. If doing this, put something down on the ground to prevent scratching. Also be aware that wind can easily blow this over!
It is best not to store the rear clip on the ground horizontally (i.e., as it sits on the car). This can cause the edges to bow out over time and may make it harder to attach.
Suggestions
When not mounted to the car, we prefer to sit the front and rear clips on bodywork stands to prevent bending. You don't have to spend much! We find that the Harbor Freight Portable Work Stands (approx $23 each) work perfectly.
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