Rush SR Service Manual
  • Getting Started
    • Rush SR Specs
      • Why the GSXS-1000?
      • Dyno Sheet
    • Before Starting - Warnings
    • Removing Bodywork
    • Break-in and Initial Setup
      • Seat Mounting
      • Pedal Box Placement
      • Bedding Brakes
      • Engine Break-in
      • Driving and Shifting
    • Understanding Your Dash
  • Maintenance
    • Maintenance Schedule
      • Each Session
        • Torquing Wheels
        • Lubing Chain
      • Each Weekend
        • Checking Fuel Pressure
        • Clean & Adjusting Chain
        • Inspecting Nuts & Bolts
        • Checking Shock Pressure
        • Adjusting Throttle & Clutch Cable
      • Each Month/Quarter
        • Greasing Joints and Bearings
        • Changing Diff & Engine Oil
        • Inspecting & Bleeding Brakes
      • Each Year
        • Change Air Filter
        • Changing Coolant
        • Cleaning Fuel Filter
        • Inspecting Wheel Bearings
        • Rebuilding Shocks (Track Variable)
        • Cleaning Radiator
        • Replacing Chain (Track Variable)
        • Rebuilding Axles
      • Long-Term Maintenance (150hr+)
    • Fluids
    • Shock Diagrams
    • Torque Specs
    • Suzuki Service Manuals
    • Electronics and Wiring
      • Main Harness
      • Shift Harness
      • Dash Harness
    • Winterizing
    • Dash Alarms
    • Engine and Gearbox
  • Tunables
    • Factory Baseline Setup Guide
    • Anti-Roll Bars
    • Shock Adjustments
    • Gear Ratios / Sprocket Changes
    • Alignment and Ride Height
    • Diff Plate Stacks
    • Ballast
    • Chain Guards and Replacement
    • Left Foot Braking
    • Brake Pads and Rotors
    • Tires
    • Mirrors
  • Dash, Data, and SmartyCam
  • Wrapping Your Rush SR
  • Running & Consumables Costs
    • Comparison to Other Cars
  • Parts & Repair Costs
  • Transporting Your Rush SR
  • Competing in Events
    • Decals and Brand Assets
    • Technical Regulations
  • Getting Help
    • Rush SR Owners' Forum
    • Rush SR Facebook Community
  • Service Bulletins
    • 2023-05-19 Pedal Box Safety Notice
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  1. Getting Started
  2. Break-in and Initial Setup

Bedding Brakes

PreviousPedal Box PlacementNextEngine Break-in

Last updated 1 year ago

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It is very important to bed your brakes properly. The Rush SR is a very light car, but improper transfer of pad material to the rotors will lead to a very "wooden" brake feel and an inability to lock the tires under any pressure.

Note that the Rush SR does not have power brakes or ABS (like a Formula car!), so you will need to apply much more pressure than you are used to from a GT car. Don't worry, you'll get used to it, and start to appreciate the fine control your foot can do with manual braking.

With a new car, or new pads/rotors, the following procedure should be followed, and can be followed simultaneously with an . It is useful to have a mostly empty track - do not slam on the brakes with people behind you!

  1. Take the car out for an approx. 25 minute session.

  2. During this session, go slow, and use the brakes as little as possible in the corners. Slowly build temperature in the brakes by using them in the straights, then let them cool.

  3. Continue to increase brake pressure until you're at about 90% pressure. At this point, you should be about 15-20 minutes in. If you start to feel the brakes "going off", you're done with this step.

  4. Now cool off your brakes. Do 1-2 laps with minimal braking, then head into the pits.

  5. Once in the pits, DO NOT use the brakes to the extent possible, and let them cool completely (~45min). Do not press them when the car is stationary as you risk depositing extraneous pad material.

Owners have also found this handy.

engine break-in
Section 111 article