Rush SR Service Manual
  • Getting Started
    • Rush SR Specs
      • Why the GSXS-1000?
      • Dyno Sheet
    • Before Starting - Warnings
    • Removing Bodywork
    • Break-in and Initial Setup
      • Seat Mounting
      • Pedal Box Placement
      • Bedding Brakes
      • Engine Break-in
      • Driving and Shifting
    • Understanding Your Dash
  • Maintenance
    • Maintenance Schedule
      • Each Session
        • Torquing Wheels
        • Lubing Chain
      • Each Weekend
        • Checking Fuel Pressure
        • Clean & Adjusting Chain
        • Inspecting Nuts & Bolts
        • Checking Shock Pressure
        • Adjusting Throttle & Clutch Cable
      • Each Month/Quarter
        • Greasing Joints and Bearings
        • Changing Diff & Engine Oil
        • Inspecting & Bleeding Brakes
      • Each Year
        • Change Air Filter
        • Changing Coolant
        • Cleaning Fuel Filter
        • Inspecting Wheel Bearings
        • Rebuilding Shocks (Track Variable)
        • Cleaning Radiator
        • Replacing Chain (Track Variable)
        • Rebuilding Axles
      • Long-Term Maintenance (150hr+)
    • Fluids
    • Shock Diagrams
    • Torque Specs
    • Suzuki Service Manuals
    • Electronics and Wiring
      • Main Harness
      • Shift Harness
      • Dash Harness
    • Winterizing
    • Dash Alarms
    • Engine and Gearbox
  • Tunables
    • Factory Baseline Setup Guide
    • Anti-Roll Bars
    • Shock Adjustments
    • Gear Ratios / Sprocket Changes
    • Alignment and Ride Height
    • Diff Plate Stacks
    • Ballast
    • Chain Guards and Replacement
    • Left Foot Braking
    • Brake Pads and Rotors
    • Tires
    • Mirrors
  • Dash, Data, and SmartyCam
  • Wrapping Your Rush SR
  • Running & Consumables Costs
    • Comparison to Other Cars
  • Parts & Repair Costs
  • Transporting Your Rush SR
  • Competing in Events
    • Decals and Brand Assets
    • Technical Regulations
  • Getting Help
    • Rush SR Owners' Forum
    • Rush SR Facebook Community
  • Service Bulletins
    • 2023-05-19 Pedal Box Safety Notice
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  1. Maintenance
  2. Maintenance Schedule
  3. Each Weekend

Checking Shock Pressure

PreviousInspecting Nuts & BoltsNextAdjusting Throttle & Clutch Cable

Last updated 1 year ago

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Shock pressure should be 300psi, air or nitrogen. Nitrogen is preferred due to lower water content, but regular air can and will work in a pinch. It is important to measure with the wheels on the ground.

Keep on top of this! Low shock pressure can lead to inversion of the shock boots during use which will accelerate the failure of the shock.

If you want to use air, you can use any shock pump that is rated for at least 300 psi. The cheapest reliable one we have found is . Typically, a larger pump is better, and a larger handle is better too, to save your hands. The chuck on the linked pump works fine. With other pumps, we recommend this .

When you check shock pressure with your pump, it will typically lose approximately 100psi just from filling the hose and pressure gauge, as the shocks have very low air volume. Refill back to 300psi after checking. A future factory upgrade will include enlarged air reservoirs, which will reduce this effect and reduce maintenance intervals for the shock.

this one on Amazon
no-loss chuck
Checking pressure with no-loss chuck.
Checking shocks at 300psi with Amazon pump. The no-loss chuck is not necessary with this pump and was later removed.