Rush SR Service Manual
  • Getting Started
    • Rush SR Specs
      • Why the GSXS-1000?
      • Dyno Sheet
    • Before Starting - Warnings
    • Removing Bodywork
    • Break-in and Initial Setup
      • Seat Mounting
      • Pedal Box Placement
      • Bedding Brakes
      • Engine Break-in
      • Driving and Shifting
    • Understanding Your Dash
  • Maintenance
    • Maintenance Schedule
      • Each Session
        • Torquing Wheels
        • Lubing Chain
      • Each Weekend
        • Checking Fuel Pressure
        • Clean & Adjusting Chain
        • Inspecting Nuts & Bolts
        • Checking Shock Pressure
        • Adjusting Throttle & Clutch Cable
      • Each Month/Quarter
        • Greasing Joints and Bearings
        • Changing Diff & Engine Oil
        • Inspecting & Bleeding Brakes
      • Each Year
        • Change Air Filter
        • Changing Coolant
        • Cleaning Fuel Filter
        • Inspecting Wheel Bearings
        • Rebuilding Shocks (Track Variable)
        • Cleaning Radiator
        • Replacing Chain (Track Variable)
        • Rebuilding Axles
      • Long-Term Maintenance (150hr+)
    • Fluids
    • Shock Diagrams
    • Torque Specs
    • Suzuki Service Manuals
    • Electronics and Wiring
      • Main Harness
      • Shift Harness
      • Dash Harness
    • Winterizing
    • Dash Alarms
    • Engine and Gearbox
  • Tunables
    • Factory Baseline Setup Guide
    • Anti-Roll Bars
    • Shock Adjustments
    • Gear Ratios / Sprocket Changes
    • Alignment and Ride Height
    • Diff Plate Stacks
    • Ballast
    • Chain Guards and Replacement
    • Left Foot Braking
    • Brake Pads and Rotors
    • Tires
    • Mirrors
  • Dash, Data, and SmartyCam
  • Wrapping Your Rush SR
  • Running & Consumables Costs
    • Comparison to Other Cars
  • Parts & Repair Costs
  • Transporting Your Rush SR
  • Competing in Events
    • Decals and Brand Assets
    • Technical Regulations
  • Getting Help
    • Rush SR Owners' Forum
    • Rush SR Facebook Community
  • Service Bulletins
    • 2023-05-19 Pedal Box Safety Notice
Powered by GitBook
On this page

Was this helpful?

Edit on GitHub
  1. Tunables

Diff Plate Stacks

PreviousAlignment and Ride HeightNextBallast

Last updated 1 year ago

Was this helpful?

From the factory, we set the differential to the medium friction / medium lock-up configuration in the factory. Most owners leave it there and never touch it.

If you find that you are spinning the inside wheel coming off a corner, you can increase the differential lock up by adjusting the clutch plates to the high friction/ high lock-up configuration. Similarly if you find that power on exit is causing an exit understeer you can reduce the lock-up by going to the low friction configuration.

The picture above shows the clutch plate configuration for the 3 options. Please also note it takes a long time for the diff plates to seat in as there is really not a lot of movement during use.

Don't confuse a broken in diff with a worn out diff if you are able to spin a wheel by hand easily when you have the wheels off the ground. The diff is doing nothing unless being loaded through the drive gears.

Please note this is mainly driver preference and is NOT a typical tuning technique. The diff is adjustable by virtue of its design. Most will find the factory setting most preferential and will never adjust it!