Greasing Joints and Bearings

Heim joints and ball joints need frequent inspection and re-greasing to ensure proper operation.

Do not ignore this! Failure to clean and lubricate joints can result in critical failures, as the seizing of a joint or bearing will result in unintended load on other components, which can cause failures on track.

The most common instance of upright failure comes from not cleaning your ball joints. Dirt and grime gets into them and makes them tight. When the top ball joint gets tight, it puts the upper upright bolts in bending every time the suspension moves. Clean your ball joints regularly with WD40 and apply lithium grease or dry lube to them.

In the picture below, both ball joints needed cleaning and re-greasing.

If you have spun your car or had an on- or off-track incident that would put additional stress on the uprights, we recommend replacing all upper upright bolts, especially the rears. They are G12.9 M10x55mm 1.5mm thread pitch from the factory.

An even stronger bolt is available here in bulk. Keep in mind that if the bolt does not break, the shock may instead go to the upper control arm, bearing pin, or carrier, all of which are more expensive to replace!

Pictured: broken upright bolts on rear left wheel hub.

Also pay attention to the rod end on the rear toe link. When it goes tight, it wants to unscrew the rear upright shoulder bolt. As part of your normal nut and bolt inspection, if you notice this, it could indicate that a cleaning and lubrication is due.

If you notice that your ball joints are very dirty, or if you spin or have an off with the car, you should remove the upright bolts, inspect, and replace if necessary. Use the torque spec diagram when re-tightening.