Rush SR Service Manual
  • Getting Started
    • Rush SR Specs
      • Why the GSXS-1000?
      • Dyno Sheet
    • Before Starting - Warnings
    • Removing Bodywork
    • Break-in and Initial Setup
      • Seat Mounting
      • Pedal Box Placement
      • Bedding Brakes
      • Engine Break-in
      • Driving and Shifting
    • Understanding Your Dash
  • Maintenance
    • Maintenance Schedule
      • Each Session
        • Torquing Wheels
        • Lubing Chain
      • Each Weekend
        • Checking Fuel Pressure
        • Clean & Adjusting Chain
        • Inspecting Nuts & Bolts
        • Checking Shock Pressure
        • Adjusting Throttle & Clutch Cable
      • Each Month/Quarter
        • Greasing Joints and Bearings
        • Changing Diff & Engine Oil
        • Inspecting & Bleeding Brakes
      • Each Year
        • Change Air Filter
        • Changing Coolant
        • Cleaning Fuel Filter
        • Inspecting Wheel Bearings
        • Rebuilding Shocks (Track Variable)
        • Cleaning Radiator
        • Replacing Chain (Track Variable)
        • Rebuilding Axles
      • Long-Term Maintenance (150hr+)
    • Fluids
    • Shock Diagrams
    • Torque Specs
    • Suzuki Service Manuals
    • Electronics and Wiring
      • Main Harness
      • Shift Harness
      • Dash Harness
    • Winterizing
    • Dash Alarms
    • Engine and Gearbox
  • Tunables
    • Factory Baseline Setup Guide
    • Anti-Roll Bars
    • Shock Adjustments
    • Gear Ratios / Sprocket Changes
    • Alignment and Ride Height
    • Diff Plate Stacks
    • Ballast
    • Chain Guards and Replacement
    • Left Foot Braking
    • Brake Pads and Rotors
    • Tires
    • Mirrors
  • Dash, Data, and SmartyCam
  • Wrapping Your Rush SR
  • Running & Consumables Costs
    • Comparison to Other Cars
  • Parts & Repair Costs
  • Transporting Your Rush SR
  • Competing in Events
    • Decals and Brand Assets
    • Technical Regulations
  • Getting Help
    • Rush SR Owners' Forum
    • Rush SR Facebook Community
  • Service Bulletins
    • 2023-05-19 Pedal Box Safety Notice
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  1. Maintenance
  2. Maintenance Schedule
  3. Each Month/Quarter

Greasing Joints and Bearings

PreviousEach Month/QuarterNextChanging Diff & Engine Oil

Last updated 10 months ago

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Heim joints and ball joints need frequent inspection and re-greasing to ensure proper operation.

Do not ignore this! Failure to clean and lubricate joints can result in critical failures, as the seizing of a joint or bearing will result in unintended load on other components, which can cause failures on track.

The most common instance of upright failure comes from not cleaning your ball joints. Dirt and grime gets into them and makes them tight. When the top ball joint gets tight, it puts the upper upright bolts in bending every time the suspension moves. Clean your ball joints regularly with WD40 and apply lithium grease or dry lube to them.

In the picture below, both ball joints needed cleaning and re-greasing.

If you have spun your car or had an on- or off-track incident that would put additional stress on the uprights, we recommend replacing all upper upright bolts, especially the rears. They are G12.9 M10x55mm 1.5mm thread pitch from the factory.

An even stronger bolt in bulk. Keep in mind that if the bolt does not break, the shock may instead go to the upper control arm, bearing pin, or carrier, all of which are more expensive to replace!

Also pay attention to the rod end on the rear toe link. When it goes tight, it wants to unscrew the rear upright shoulder bolt. As part of your normal , if you notice this, it could indicate that a cleaning and lubrication is due.

If you notice that your ball joints are very dirty, or if you spin or have an off with the car, you should remove the upright bolts, inspect, and replace if necessary. Use the when re-tightening.

nut and bolt inspection
torque spec diagram
is available here
Pictured: broken upright bolts on rear left wheel hub.